Tlie Three Arts in Training Evergreens

The usual concept of pruning is to trim evergreens to maintain their natural lines, to remove dead wood, and to clip for the purpose of increasing the density of the plants. However, the heritage of a different type of training has come to us through the centuries. There are three definite methods other than the ordinary pruning procedure for attaining unusual, and in many instances, charming effects. These methods of training are espalier, bonsai, and topiary work.

ESPALIER

The art of training woody ornamentals on a support such as a wall, trellis, or fence is known as espalier. In European gardens this practice stemmed from the necessity of utilizing every available space for planting purposes. Resourceful gardeners discovered that when fruit trees were grown against the friendly protection of a wall, the ripening process was hastened. The accumulation of the heat of the sun on the wall, together with the shield it offered from chilly winds and late frosts, were found to be a special asset in regions where the summers were too cool to ripen fruit grown in an open location.

A lovely espalier can be developed by using evergreens: Yews, Hollies, Firethorn, Loquat, Cleyera, Euonymus, Photinia, and Holly Olive are among those that lend themselves admirably to this type of training. On expanses of high, broad walls the Southern Magnolia is also a good subject for espalier work, provided its large leaves and bold habit of growth are in proper scale with its surroundings.

Bare walls can be turned into arresting features with an artistic tracery of espaliered, living green. The spaces around and between windows and over doorways also offer opportunities for introducing this distinctive note.

Your espalier can be pruned to form a fan, a candelabra, a U-shape, or whatever design you wish. A graceful spray of branches informally trained on a garden wall will give a delicate touch of real beauty. The most usual method is to train the branches in a horizontal pattern with the stems at right angles to the trunk; the design can also be either vertical or diagonal in form.

At all times the intended design must be kept clear cut. This is done by continually pinching out or cutting off any shoots that interfere with this objective.

Photo: Anita M. E. Boiling

Pyracantha espaliered in a formal design on a broad expanse of wall adds a note of interest to this garden. The meticulous training was achieved by outlining the design on the wall with a wire; this was fastened to the wall with Parker Kalon nails driven into the masonry with a heavy mallet. By keeping the shoots tied to this support and by frequent trimming, the pattern is kept clear cut. (Garden of Mr. and Mrs. W. Beaumont Whitney.)

When a plant is espaliered against a wall, its branches are held in place with pieces of covered wire or narrow strips of leather. These are placed at intervals across the branches, and are fastened to the wall with concrete nails driven into the joints. Another method is to train the branches on a wire frame which is attached to the wall or the fence. The advantage of a wire support is that it is an easy matter to tie in the shoots. The wire form is made in the shape of the desired pattern and thus serves as a useful guide. In locations where the summer temperatures are high, there is danger of the wire support becoming overheated and injuring the plants.

Prior to planting, the soil should be well pulverized and deeply worked, to provide a congenial medium for the roots. Any unproductive earth should be removed and substituted with good compost or top-soil. Plants that are to be espaliered are set 1 foot away from the support. The back branches are pruned off, so that the evergreen may be placed flat against its support. Any roots that interfere with the correct placement of the plant will also have to be removed; however, do as little root pruning as possible. When the planting has been completed, it is advisable to trim back the top-growth to balance the reduced root system. For the future welfare of the plant it is best to leave a soil area of about 2 feet around the plant; this will improve the soil aeration and will also facilitate watering, fertilizing, and mulching, the latter helps to retain soil moisture and to lower the soil temperature.

A bare wall has been turned into an arresting feature with an espaliered Pyracantha trained in an unusual design. (Garden of Mr. and Mrs. Francis H. Bohlen.)

BONSAI

The Japanese, with their deep feeling for the aesthetic and their love of plants and miniature gardens, have stimulated our interest in the ancient Oriental art of bonsai. Bonsai is the practice of dwarfing a plant to create a replica of an old, weathered tree in miniature. Various cultural means have been devised for carrying out this type of training. By growing the plant in a small container to restrict its root system, and by controlling its top-growth, it will eventually become dwarfed. By this method, trees such as Pines become dwarf pot plants that can live for 1 or 2 hundred years, or even longer, under the skilled guidance of the bonsai practitioner. Great attention is paid to the distribution of the branches, and to the shape of the trunk. To simulate antiquity, the trunk and the branches are some­times given a bend or a twist, which is held in place with a support until the plant grows naturally into its intended form. It takes many years to develop a worth-while bonsai specimen, but the "sculptor" of living mate­rial can ultimately achieve the creation of his concept of an aged tree. This dream may not always come to fruition during his lifetime, and many are the bonsai that are handed down from generation to generation.

Bonsai fanciers will sometimes climb high in the mountaintops in their search for suitable plants for their collection. Perhaps in a deep ravine or in a rocky crevice he will find a subject that has already been dwarfed by nature, because of poor growing conditions. Plants so situated have lived on a crust, and have survived the vicissitudes of rugged weather. Although these plants are ideally suited to bonsai, it will take 2 or maybe 3 years of care before the "artist" feels that his chosen plant is in satisfactory shape to move with safety. A root sys­tem that is sufficiently compact to survive transplanting must first be developed, and this is ac­complished by root-pruning. The next year the grower will return to prune the root a little more, and maybe tuck in some rich soil around the plant; again the fol­lowing year still more trimming may be required. There can be no hurry in this pursuit; patience and loving care are the requisites. At last the day dawns when the plant can be moved to its final quarters—the pot in which it is destined to live for the duration of its life span.

Photo: Kan Taskiroda
This example of bonsai is a Japanese White Pine with five trunks. (Courtesy, BrooklynBotanic Garden.)

In the United States suitable subjects can sometime be found while roaming through fields and woodlands or in the mountain regions. However, not all of us can find appropriate specimens in nature and must look to a more practical solution for obtaining material. Some fanciers grow their stock from seed, others prefer to purchase rooted cut­tings, and still others may find what they need in nurseries.

Hand-in-hand with finding the right plant goes the selection of an artistic container. The latter plays an important part in the over-all beauty of bonsai, since its function is to enhance the lines of the tree itself. These containers can usually be purchased from a bonsai dealer, and they come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. The size you buy will naturally depend on the ultimate height you wish your plant to attain. Your bonsai can be as small as 6 or 7 inches, or it can exceed 4 feet in height, but the usual size is from 1 to 1 ½ feet or slightly higher.

Practically any plant lends itself to bonsai, but evergreens are excep­tionally appropriate for this use. Among these are Pines, Junipers, Yews, Gryptomeria, False-Cypress, Firs, Spruces, and Cedars. Broad-leaved ever­greens are also popular, such as Hollies, Azaleas, Camellia sasanqua, Laurel, dwarf species of Rhododendron, Firethorn, and Nandina.

The art of growing bonsai is a highly specialized one and difficult for the inexperienced horticulturist to master. Pruning the roots and the top-growth when necessary, repotting, feeding, watering, and holding pests in check are all essential, but they must be done with extreme caution and with full knowledge of plant culture. Bonsai are not intended for indoor culture, although they can be brought into the house for a day or two for special occasions. Plenty of air, light, and sun are needed for their best welfare, but they welcome a little shade from the hot afternoon sun. In spite of the difficulties and pitfalls involved in their culture, raising these plants is an intriguing interest; however, one should not undertake it un­less he is prepared to watch them daily and to anticipate their every need. For table decoration on patio or terrace they are uniquely dramatic. The larger specimens are enchanting when they are used as accents close to a pool or some other garden feature.

Because of the intricacy of growing bonsai, the detailed culture is not discussed here. Those who are interested in full information will find one of the books on the subject of great value, two of which are "Bonsai Minia­ture Trees," by Claude Chidamian, or "The Japanese Art of Miniature Trees and Landscapes," by Yuzi Yoshimura and G. M. Halford.

In conclusion I cannot resist quoting these lines from Mr. Ghidamian's delightful book: "It is not what we do to these plants that is important, but what they do to us. The need for patience, humility, and peace is uni­versal. So too is the power of bonsai. It can touch alike the heart of an impoverished fifteenth-century Japanese samurai or calm the troubled mind of the twentieth-century American. Even you and I can find a greater measure of faith, courage, and understanding living and growing with bonsai."'

TOPIARY

Topiary is the practice of training woody ornamentals into various and unusual forms. According to this method trees and shrubs are clipped into formal designs by means of pruning. Plants can be shaped as bird baths, sundials, animals, statuary, globes, spirals, and pyramids; in fact any object is reproduced which the topiarist wishes to simulate.

The art of topiary is rich in historic background and is especially asso­ciated with the large, formal estates of bygone days. The early Romans used it on an elaborate scale, but the height of its popularity was reached during the sixteenth century—"The Golden Age of Topiary." In the early part of the eighteenth century its usage declined, because of the trend of the times to break away from the formal gardens.

In present-day gardens, topiary in its simpler forms has a definite place. One of the most common of these is a well-sheared hedge. This hedge, always faultlessly symmetrical, can be rectangular, rounded, or triangular in shape, or it can be pruned into a series of steps or of arches. Frequently only one arch will occur in the hedge, which will mark the entrance to the garden. On a famous estate in England the writer has seen an exam­ple of topiary work of singular beauty—this is a low balustrade of English Ivy enclosing the flower garden; it is so perfectly executed in every detail that it gives the effect of a masonry construction of banisters and rail cov­ered with luxuriant green. Precision should be the motto of the topiarist, since success depends on the degree of perfection attained in producing the desired form.

Evergreens are especially well adapted to this art, and among these Yews are of particular value; Box is also desirable, its only drawback being its slow habit of growth. Other evergreens that might be mentioned for this pur­pose are Holly, Hemlock, English Ivy, and the evergreen species of Privet.

The plants to be used for topiary will get off to a better start if the soil is well worked and fertile, which is the case wherever evergreens are to be grown. In purchasing specimens for this type of work, select those that are 2 or 3 feet in height and stocky from the base up. Pruning commences a year after planting; however, if a large piece of topiary is to be developed it is best not to begin the training until the plant has attained considerable size. If the specimen is kept headed back and properly sheared, the growth of sturdy stems will be encouraged and this will be a definite help in the

Simple topiary has been carved out of Yaupon Holly in a Williamsburg, Va., garden. (Courtesy, Colonial Williamsburg, Va.)
Photo: George Beamish

Specimens of topiary used as accents in this formal garden of Colonial days. (Courtesy, Colonial Williamsburg, Va.) training process. Sometimes permanent supports have to be provided, as in the case of arches, and at least temporary support is required in the early stages of training, until the branches become heavy enough to hold their shape. These supports can be of wood, iron, or wire, depending on the kind of topiary to be reproduced; in the more elaborate pieces, such as a peacock, or other small objects, wiring will probably be required.

Careful and frequent pruning at intervals throughout the growing season must be attended to meticulously. All wayward growth should be clipped off as soon as it appears; this pruning will force the formation of new growth in the inner part of the plant, thus increasing its density. In addition to expert trimming, the topiarist must be on the constant alert for pests; these should be eradicated immediately, otherwise the work of years may be destroyed in a short period.

HEDGES

The value of evergreens for hedges ranks high in ornamental plantings. Before selecting the hedge plant for your purpose, several factors should first be considered, for example, whether a formal or an informal hedge would fit best into your landscape scheme. Formal hedges are those that are kept closely sheared to form a compact, symmetrical top-growth from the base up; this can be obtained only by regular pruning and constant care. If the plants are allowed to become thin and straggly at their base from neglect, the beauty of a well-grown, dense hedge will be sacrificed. If an informal hedge is desired, only an occasional pruning will be required, this consists of removing dead wood, and shortening back any shoots that are out of bounds; the objective of this type of hedge is to maintain as much as possible the informal, natural habit of growth that is characteristic of the plant.

The steps leading to the steep upper level have been well handled with a sym­metrically grown Spruce hedge, a luxuriant planting of Euonymus, and a specimen Yew.

Photo: Paul E. Genet
The perfectly trained Hemlock hedge forms a wall of living green for this garden feature.

Other considerations for successful hedge culture are climate, soil, and location; although most evergreens prefer a sunny exposure, some kinds like a partially shady situation. Certain types can tolerate a windswept position, whereas the majority like a place that is protected from high winds. Care must be exercised to choose the kind of plants that will thrive under the existing conditions. The height the plant attains is another factor to take into account; if a low hedge is called for, naturally a dwarf evergreen will be the best selection. The cultural requirements of each plant are given in Part II.

A few evergreens well adapted to hedge work are given here:
Abelia grandiflora, Glossy Abelia Arbutus unedo, Strawberry-tree Berberis buxifolia, Magellan Barberry Berberis darwinii, Darwin Barberry Berberis mentorensis, Mentor Barberry Buxus microphylla koreana Buxus sempewirens, Common Box Buxus sempewirens suffruticosa, Edging
Box, Dwarf Box
Camellia sasanqua, Sasanqua Camellia Cleyera, Cleyera Euonymus, Emerald Pride Euonymus japonica, Evergreen Euony­mus
Feijoa sellowiana, Pineapple Guava Ilex, Holly (various species) Juniperus, Juniper (various species) Laurus nobilis, Sweet Bay, Laurel Ligustrum japonicum, Japanese Privet Ligustrum lucidum, Glossy Privet Lonicera nitida, Box Honeysuckle Michelia fuscata, Banana-shrub Myrtus communis, Myrtle Osmanthus ilicifolius, Holly Osmanthus Picea, Spruce Pinus, Pine
Pittosporum tobira, Japanese Pittosporum Prunus laurocerasus, Cherry-laurel Pyracantha cocanea, Scarlet Firethorn Pyracantha coccinea lalandi, Laland Fire-thorn
Taxus, Yew (various species) Thuja, Arbor-vitae Tsuga canadensis, Canada Hemlock,
Common Hemlock Viburnum tinus, Laurestinus
Suggested evergreens for hedges in the cold parts of the United States are given in the Farmer's Bulletin No. 2019, U. S. Department of Agri­culture, "Ornamental Hedges for the Central Great Plains." Some of these recommendations are listed here:
Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana, Pfitzers Juniper
Juniperus monosperma, Cherrystone Juni­per
Juniperus sabina, Savin Juniper
Juniperus scopulorum, Western Red Ce­dar, Rocky Mountain Juniper
Juniperus virginana, Red Cedar, Eastern Red Cedar
Picea glauca var. densata, Black Hills Spruce
Picea pungens, Colorado Spruce
Pinus aristata, Hickory Pine, Bristle-Cone Pine
Pinus mugo mughus, Mugho Pine, Moun­tain Pine

Photo £. Genereux
The swimming pool has been brought into the landscape scheme with a good planting. The Spruce hedge gives privacy and serves as a rich background for the flowers.

On the Central Great Plains hedges play an important role in landscaping. Conifers rate high for this purpose. This hedge of Colorado Spruce gives privacy to the garden. (Courtesy, U.S. Department of Agriculture.)

Coniferous evergreens purchased for hedge planting should be well branched and stocky from the base up. Formal coniferous hedges can be trimmed in much the same way as those of other plants. With most mem­bers of this group the new growth is pinched back, or the plants are sheared during the growing season. In the case of Pines the new shoots are best cut back when the candles first appear, before the needles develop on the spring growth. Conifers must never be pruned lower than the point where foliage exists. As previously mentioned, it is imperative never to neglect the hedge, and to keep the plants stocky from the beginning by careful pruning

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