Evergreens - P through Q

PAGHISTIMA CANBYI, Zone 5, Ganby Pachistima, is a low-growing plant native to the mountainous regions of Virginia. Since it only grows 10 or 12 inches high, it makes a charming ground cover. It is also useful for edging the evergreen border and for covering rocky slopes; in fact, it is well qualified to fill every ground cover need. Pachistima is a hardy little plant and grows in sun or partial shade. It succeeds in soil that is acid and well drained. Propagation is by division, layers, and cuttings.

PACHYSANDRA TERMINALIS, Zone 5, Japanese Spurge, is a highly decorative ground cover that is no care to grow. It will thrive in a sunny exposure; however, a partially shady location is decidedly preferable. For covering banks, slopes, and for use under low windows, in patio beds, and as an underplanting to the evergreen border, Pachysandra is always an attractive addition. Peat moss worked into the soil at planting time gives the young plants a good start, and a mulch of peat moss is also highly beneficial for stimulating vigorous growth. In order to keep an established planting healthy, it should be thinned from time to time. If the soil is heavy and be­comes baked in the summer heat, it is advisable to encourage growth by working peat moss into the ground; under such conditions a mulch of peat moss is especially acceptable.

Propagation is no problem, since Pachysandra grows readily from rooted portions taken from established plantings; it is also easily increased from cuttings made in summer when the new growth has hardened. The slips are made 2 or 3 inches below the second whorl of leaves, and are plunged into a bucket of water. If they are left soaking for several hours or over­night, the tissues will absorb a generous amount of moisture, which naturally helps to prevent undue wilting when they are set out. The cuttings should be planted sufficiently deep to bring the lower whorl of leaves level with the surface of the ground. For quick coverage the slips can be planted 2 to 6 inches apart; they should be watered once or twice a day as long as they show any sign of wilting, after which time the new roots will have formed.

Photo: H. Armstrong RobertsThe gently curving steps and walk with low-growing evergreens create artistic lines that make a charming feature.

Care should be taken to sprinkle the leaves lightly when watering, because an excessive amount of soil moisture will cause the cuttings to rot.

Vases filled with Pachysandra make attractive winter greens for house decoration. In spring those which have rooted can be set out in the open. The best time to gather greens for this purpose is before frost.

PALM. In warm climates Palms are among the most important and dis­tinctive plants available. The exotic, tropical effect they contribute to the grounds makes them pre-eminently typical of their surroundings. The use of Palms in home garden plantings is expanding considerably. Landscape architects are producing outstanding results with the smaller, more man­ageable kinds. The value of these plants has not been fully appreciated up to the present time, but this situation is being remedied to a large extent, as more is known about the lower-growing species that are adapted to the small places, the city lots, and planting bins.

Palms vary in size from the dwarf kinds to the tall, stately species which grow from 50 to 100 feet in height. Some of these plants are erect, others lean in their habit of growth, some have a single stem, and others develop several stems. The dwarf and lower-growing types are attractive in group­ings or in foundation plantings; the large-growing species are difficult to place artistically in the planting scheme, and great care should be taken to tie them into the general design. In some instances they serve to frame a vista. They are also used as background subjects, and as accents, where they provide a sharp contrast in line introducing a dramatic touch. Planted each side of a driveway approaching the house Palms give a magnificent effect.

The beauty of Palms depends on the vigor and luxuriance of their growth, therefore it is worth-while to give them the growing conditions best suited to their needs. Generally speaking, they prefer a location that is shel­tered from the intense heat of the sun and from strong winds. Fertile ground is an essential for best results; poor soil should be especially well enriched with rotted manures or with a well balanced fertilizer.

The ideal procedure is to make the planting holes 2 or 3 months before planting time, in order that the rich mixture which is used to refill the holes will have sufficient time in which to become thoroughly decomposed; with this precaution the roots will not be apt to burn. The holes should be made several times larger than the balls of earth around the roots. A good mix­ture to use for filling the holes consists of compost or rich garden soil, a generous amount of well-rotted manures, decayed leaves, sod or grass mow­ings, and some bone meal. In sandy ground the addition of clay soil or muck is desirable.

Palms can be planted at any time of the year, but the most propitious season is during the warm summer months; at that time, too, some locali­ties enjoy a rainy period which is beneficial. The best moment to plant arrives just when the rains begin. In warm weather the roots are in active growth, consequently the newly transplanted Palms start to take hold of the soil without delay, which gives them the minimum amount of setback that inevitably accompanies transplanting. This is especially desirable for large trees. In some localities growth is almost dormant during the winter months.

Palms should be moved with large balls of earth around the roots. This is important in order to preserve the short roots around the base of the plant, so they can continue to function in their new quarters without serious interruption. Any roots that are broken when moved practically discontinue to function, thereby cutting off needed sustenance.

Photo: Gatteri
This dainty clump Palm (Chamaedorea Seifriziï) is fairly new, but is proving its worth as a pot plant, for indoor and outdoor planters, and eventually may be valuable as a hedge plant. It has been found to withstand temperatures of 32° F. for a few hours. It also tolerates full sun, unlike some members of the genus.

At the time of planting great care should be exercised not to allow the tree to fall heavily, such a shock often causes it to die. The underground roots also should never be exposed to the sun and the drying winds, but should be kept covered with wet burlap when moved. The plant should be set in the hole at the same depth it stood before or a little deeper. The en­riched soil mixture already prepared in the hole is used to fill in around the root ball as the tree is being planted; this should be well firmed. Some of the leaves should be removed to help balance the reduced root system resulting from the moving, thus diminishing part of the loss of moisture through transpiration. Fan-leaved types seem to require a larger propor­tion of the foliage removed than is the case with the feather-leaved kinds. When the Saw Palmetto is transplanted the roots are severed near the recumbent stem and the foliage should be removed; the length of the result­ing section of stem should preferably be approximately 2 feet in length; the bud is left intact at the end. This entire piece of stem should be planted, practically in a vertical position, leaving only the bud above ground. The Cabbage Palmetto should have all the leaves removed when transplanting, with the exception of the central one that is just opening.

When the planting has been completed, a saucer of earth should be made around the plant a little distance from the trunk, for the purpose of hold­ing water. The Palm should then be given a thorough watering, and should never be allowed to suffer from dryness for at least the first year after being moved. In fact, for best results it should not be permitted to lack water during the dry season. Large specimens should be given support with guy wires for several months after planting, thus giving the roots a chance to take firm hold of the ground, otherwise they might become dislodged by the winds.

A mulch of well-rotted manure, leaves, or peat moss around the newly transplanted Palm, extending to the outer spread of the leaves, will give it much needed protection and additional fertility. A number of Palms lose some of their leaves, and these can be left on the ground to act as a natural mulch.

Palms respond well to occasional applications of fertilizer. Cottonseed meal, ground steamed bone meal, tankage, blood, fish scrap, and well-rotted manures are all good fertilizers to use. The manures are applied in the form of a mulch. A mixture consisting of bone meal, goat or sheep manure, and tankage is excellent. The mixture is given during the early spring and in the summer. The exact amount to use depends on various factors, such as the size of the Palm and the degree of fertility already present in the soil. These plants respond especially favorably to the organic forms of fertilizers. Ten to twenty-five pounds of the mixture mentioned above is recommended for a large tree, spreading it around the tree as far as the outer spread of the foliage. Commercial fertilizers offer an alternative, a splendid combination to use consists of 4 to 8 per cent nitrogen, 6 to 8 per cent phosphoric acid, and 4 to 8 per cent potash. Again the existing con­ditions influence the amount to apply; usually 1 or 2 ounces will be suffi­cient for a very small, newly set-out plant, whereas 15 pounds may be needed for a large Palm. In some parts of the Palm-growing regions an application should be given in late winter or early spring, and a second one in midsummer. In areas where growth may continue practically all year round, a third application can be given in late summer or early fall.

When a specimen is grown on the lawn, the fertilizing is done by a dif­ferent method—in this case holes are made around the plant and are spaced about 2 feet apart and are dug approximately 1 foot deep. These holes should be placed on a line with the outer spread of the foliage. They are then filled with a commercial fertilizer or well-rotted manure. By lifting the sod before digging the holes, it can be replaced when the fertilizing has been completed. The only drawback is that the sod which is placed over the highly fertilized holes will outgrow the surrounding lawn area, thereby necessitating more grass cutting.

Pruning Palms is simple; it is merely a matter of removing any leaves and flowers when they become brown, and cutting off any injured foliage. Here is a word of warning—often a Palm may appear to be dead after los­ing its leaves from the frost—but it pays to refrain from discarding it before the late summer, in fact often such a plant will break out with new life in spring.

Palms are usually propagated by means of seeds; other methods for increasing the supply is by separating offshoots from the main trunk, also by dividing the root clumps in the species that develop several stems. In common with other seed-grown plants, Palms cannot be depended on to come true to type because of cross-pollination. Many of the seeds are viable for quite a length of time, but it is wise to sow them as soon as they are ripe to obtain the maximum germination. Ordinarily the seeds are sown in flats or seed beds. If a flat is used, it may be 3 or 4 inches deep, and it should be supplied with drainage by boring holes in the bottom of it or by having the bottom boards slightly apart. The depth to sow the seeds depends mainly on their size, this depth varies from ¼ to 1 inch. After seeding, the flat should be stood in a place that is sheltered from cold winds. In winter it can be kept in the full sun; however, in the summer months it should be given partial shade by using slats or a cloth. The newly sown seeds should be given protection from heavy precipitation, otherwise they might be washed out. A frame is a convenient possession for this purpose, as then the flats can be placed in it and its sash will better control the hazards of weather conditions. Another advantage in having a frame is that seeds can be started directly in the soil with the protection of the sash.

The seed bed or the flat should be kept carefully watered; moist but not wet soil is essential. If allowed to become wet and dry alternately, the ger­mination will be poor. The time required for germination is dependent on the species grown. Some of these germinate in 3 or 4 weeks, whereas others take several months, and sometimes 3 or 4 years. Those which sprout more rapidly can be sown in the nursery row; however, in this case a heavier seeding should be made, and the thinnings can be utilized by planting them out. When an excessive amount of water is given the young seedlings, the damping-off fungus is likely to make its appearance.

When the seedlings are 1 or 2 inches high, they are ready to be planted in pots; by transplanting at this time fewer rootlets will be sacrificed, as would be the case if the planting is deferred until the root system has been given more of a chance to develop. Some growers pot up the seedlings as soon as they appear. When growing species that germinate irregularly, it is then advisable to pot the seedlings as they turn up. In such a case a dif­ference of as much as months may occur between the germination of the individual seeds in the same sowing.

The soil used for potting should be prepared well in advance to allow the ingredients to become thoroughly rotted—an elapse of several months is not too much. A good mixture to use consists of manure and sod, to which is added a little ground steamed bone meal, dried blood, and tankage when it is used. The plants should not be allowed to become pot-bound, but rather they should be shifted to larger pots without delay after a good root system has developed. The plants are set out in the nursery row when they are 8 to 10 inches high, spacing them 2 to 4 feet apart in the row, and leaving a space of 4 feet between the rows. In selecting the location for the nursery the most desirable situation is where the ground is well drained, moist, and considerably heavy. It does not work out successfully to choose light ground for this purpose, as it is practically impossible to lift the plants with good balls of earth when grown in such a medium.

Coconuts are planted directly in rows in a semi-shaded, moist, well-drained situation. They are set out on their sides with about one half of the Coconut buried, the other half is uncovered above ground. Just enough space is left between the nuts to prevent them from touching; if planted in rows sufficiently distant from each other to permit cultivation, this will not only help to discourage the weeds but will also be a definite asset in con­serving soil mosture. Ordinarily it takes about 4 months for Coconuts to germinate, but sometimes the plants have germinated in as short a time as one month; other times 5 months have been required. Regardless of the amount of root system that may have developed—if any at all—still the plants should be transplanted when the leaves are about 12 inches high, as the nourishment within the nuts will sustain the plants for quite a time. Coconuts will tolerate salt water and brackish soils, but salt is not a neces­sity for their welfare.

An old Live-Oak spreads sheltering arms over thick clumps of the Lady Palm, Rhaþis humilis. This Palm is hardy as far north as Jacksonville, Fla., and pos­sibly in sheltered locations along the Gulf Coast. It prefers part shade. The fan-palms in the right foreground are Cryosoþhila (formerly Acanthorhiza) Warscewiczü·

The Palms that produce edible dates are among those which should be propagated vegetatively. Several of these are increased by means of off­shoots, including the plants that have edible dates. Some Palms develop several stems, and these are propagated by division of the clumps. In grow­ing plants from offshoots, the practice is to partly cut the offshoots near the main stem; the cut should be made on the under side of the shoot. A flower pot partly filled with soil is then placed under the cut section into which it is partly planted; more soil is added to the pot and is placed around it to complete the planting. The offshoot should be watered sufficiently to keep it damp. When several weeks have passed, a good root system will have developed, and the time will have arrived to sever the rooted offshoot from the mother plant. The best time to accomplish this is late in spring and during the summer. Sometimes offshoots strike root by themselves, in which case these merely require to be severed from the parent, planted, and given the usual care. Newly planted material that is in a sunny exposure should be given some shade until the roots have had a chance to take hold of the soil.

It is thought that by applyi ng sulfate of potash in the late fall it will help to check growth, thus making injury by frost less likely to occur.
The subject of Palms is so vast that only a comparatively short discus­sion of this fascinating subject can be given here because of limited space. There are about 4,000 species of Palms in the world. The wide divergence in nomenclature of the various genera naturally causes a certain amount of confusion, which it is hoped may be clarified by standardization some future time. A few of the well-known species are given here.

Tall-Growing Species:

Cocos nucifera, Zone 10, Coconut, is a fine tree that is suitable for cultiva­tion in warm sections. It is one of the most outstanding Palms, with large leaves that give a typically tropical effect. The Coconut reaches a height of 90 to 100 feet, and is excellent for background and specimen plantings.

Livistona australis, Zone 10, Australian Fan Palm, grows about 50 feet high. This splendid species has rich green, fan-shaped leaves.

Phoenix reclinata, Zone 10, Senegal Date Palm, develops into a stunning tree about 30 feet tall, with gracefully arched stems and a rounded top.

Roystonea regia, Zone 10, Royal Palm, is a beautiful tree that is 100 feet in height. It is widely planted within its climatic range, where it is used for lining avenues. The home owner with a long approach to the house can plant this tree along each side of the drive. The Royal Palm is the most graceful of all the Palms.

Sabal Palmetto, Zone 8, Cabbage Palmetto, is a species with broad, fan-shaped leaves that measure about 5 feet in length and approximately 7 feet in width. The leaves of this Palm are dried and used in churches on Palm Sunday. It is the hardiest species and grows to a height of about 80 feet. This kind is quite adaptable, as it thrives in various soils and can with­stand ocean spray.

Dwarf-Growing Species:
Phoenix roebeleni, Pigmy Date Palm, is a favorite among the dwarf growers, attaining a height of approximately 7 feet. A location in the partial shade is decidedly preferable for this species.

Sabal minor, Zone 9, Dwarf Palmetto, grows 3 or 4 feet high. This plant has the asset of growing in swampy ground.

Seronoa repens, Zone 8, Saw Palmetto, grows 3 feet high and sometimes reaches a height of 8 feet. It is hardy into North Carolina. This plant is useful for informal garden effects, arid it has a creeping, spreading habit of growth.

Photo: Gaiter
Mass planting of low-growing Palms in the Bailey Palm Glade at Fairchild Tropical Garden, Miami, Fla., shows a skillful combination of fan and feather forms.

PARKINSONIA ACULEATA, Zone 9, Jerusalem Thorn, is a graceful small tree that grows 30 feet in height. It has pendulous, thorny, green branches. In warm climates this plant is semi-evergreen. Its open habit of growth and small leaves give it a filmy effect. The fragrant, yellow flowers are borne in loose, drooping axillary racemes in late spring, sometimes these clusters measure 6 inches in length. Jerusalem Thorn is good for hedge work. This evergreen should have a position in the full sun, and it can be grown in locations that are sandy and hot; it has the advantage of being drought resistant. Propagation is by seeds.

The Saw Palmetto, Serenoa repens, is increasingly popular for mass planting, par­ticularly in its gray-leaved form. Native to the lower South, it can stand con­siderable cold and will also survive drought and neglect. Here it is combined with Vinca minor for easy maintenance.

PHILLYREA DECORA, Zone 6, Lanceleaf Phillyrea. This attractive shrub is a good subject to include in the evergreen border, where a bush 10 feet high fits into the planting scheme. Phillyrea will thrive in a sunny or partly shady position, and it will grow in various soils. The white flowers are followed by purple-black berries. Propagation is by layers, seeds, and cuttings of the half-ripened wood.

PHOTINIA SERRULATA, Zone 7, Chinese Photinia, is a striking ever­green shrub or small tree that reaches a height of 30 feet. In mild climates it makes a good background plant for the garden and is also good for screen­ing purposes. An attractive feature of Photinia is the coppery tint of the new growth, which later turns a rich green. The white flowers appear in spring. These are followed by showy red berries which are set off by the glossy ever­green foliage. Phoinia is not particular as to its soil requirements; however, rather light, well-drained ground is preferable. Judicious pruning will im­prove the form of the plant and help to keep it compact. Propagation is by layers, cuttings, and seeds.

PICEA, Spruce, is one of the best known of the coniferous evergreens. Most of the species are hardy and are pyramidal in form. They can tolerate more shade than most of the conifers. Their drooping cones distinguish them from Firs (Abies). The latter bear their cones in an upright position.

The Spruces are splendid specimen trees while young. Unfortunately, after some years have passed most of them have a tendency to lose their lower branches, which precludes their desirability for use as permanent specimens. They are excellent as windbreaks, and make handsome back­ground subjects; some of the species work out satisfactorily for hedge work, such as Picea glauca var. densata and Picea pungens. The dwarf kinds form splendid spreading mounds of dense green, and are well suited to situations that call for low plant material. Well-drained ground is a requisite for suc­cess. Spruces are not fastidious as to soil, but they show a preference for those which are moist and sandy. Dry soil is not conducive to success, since these plants require a moderate amount of moisture to sustain their rather shallow, horizontal root systems. Because of this type of roots, transplant­ing is not difficult to accomplish. Propagation is by cuttings and seeds.

The bluish-green leaves of the Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca albertiana) give a contrasting note in the evergreen planting.

P. abias, Zone 2, Norway Spruce, is a huge tree 150 feet in height. In its youth it is a fine, rather graceful tree with a drooping habit of growth, but as it ages it has a tendency to become thin and untidy in appearance. The dwarf varieties are better subjects where space is at a premium. The variety pumila forms a very dense, low, spreading bush that grows approximately 1 ½ inches a year. There are some plants of this variety in cultivation that are 100 years old, during which time they have reached only 4 feet in height. They have a tremendous spread. The variety pygmaea grows even more slowly, making an annual growth of ¼ to ½ an inch. It is very dense in its habit.

P. breweriana, Zone 5, Brewer Spruce, is a beautiful species for areas in the Pacific Coast region, where it thrives in the moist, cool climate. It grows into a graceful tree 120 feet in height.

P. engelmanni, Zone 2, Engelmann Spruce, is a compact, pyramidal tree that grows 100 to 150 feet high. It has bluish-green foliage.

P. glauca var. densata, 'Lone 2, Black Hills Spruce, reaches approximately 40 feet in height. Its branchlets are drooping, and its leaves are bluish-green. It is dense in habit, and is very decorative in its earlier years. This species comes from the Black Hills of South Dakota and has the advantage of withstanding severe cold.

P. polita, Zone 5, Tigertail Spruce, is a Japanese species that can be rec­ognized by the taut, bristly texture of its needles. It attains a height of 90 feet. The habit of growth is stiff and dense in its youth. Tigertail Spruce is a hardy species; the foliage is dark green. It is well qualified for a hedge plant, since it lends itself to clipping.

P. pungens, Zone 2, Colorado Spruce, is a beautiful tree that is symmetri­cal in habit and is easier to work into the landscape scheme than the bluish forms of the species. Perhaps the most familiar variety is the Blue Colorado Spruce {glauca). When used as a single specimen it can develop into a very handsome tree. It can also be placed effectively against a background of green. Blue Colorado Spruce is a distinctive tree until it loses its lower branches. It attains a height of 100 feet. During the early years its habit of growth is densely pyramidal.

Photo: Paul Ë. Genet
Dwarf conifers fill many needs in modern gardens. This evergreen is a dwarf Spruce.

There are other varieties of this species, such as Kosteriana (Koster Blue Spruce), and comþacta which is a dwarf form; the variety glauca, clone "R. H. Montgomery," is a dense form with bluish leaves. A specimen of this Spruce that has been in cultivation about 20 years is now 4 feet high.

PIERIS. The japonica and floribunda species of this plant are counted among the best broad-leaved evergreens for ornamental use. Their hand­some foliage and good habit of growth make them useful for foundation plantings, entrance plantings, facers and fillers in evergreen groupings and for softening walls. Pieris succeeds in partial shade. Light, moist soil that contains a liberal supply of peat moss or oak leaf mold provides congenial growing conditions. Pieris is a member of the Ericaceae, therefore acid ground is a requisite. Propagation is by layers, seeds, and cuttings taken in late summer.

Photo: Roche
Evergreens in abundance give a handsome approach to the house. The shrubs in the foreground are Pieris japomca.

Photo: Paul E. Genereux
The pendulous, creamy-white flowers of Pieris jaþonica turn this shrub into a veritable bower of bloom in early spring.

P.floribunda, Zone 4, Mountain Andromeda, is a hardy evergreen which often solves the problem of planting in the shade. It grows 6 feet high, and is spreading in its habit of growth. The erect, white flower clusters appear in the early spring.

P.formosa, Zone 7, Himalayan Andromeda, is a taller growing Andro­meda, attaining a height of 12 feet. It thrives in the gardens of warm cli­mates. The effective white or pinkish flowers are borne in pendulous panicles 6 inches in length; these open in early spring.

P.japonica, Zone 5, Japanese Andromeda, is a very handsome shrub 10 feet tall. Its glossy, soft green, decorative foliage is especially attractive in spring, when the bush is covered with new growth that is pinkish-red. The lovely pendulous panicles of ivory-white flowers are quite conspicuous. Flower buds cover the plant all winter long in readiness to open with the first genial days of early spring. The variety þygmaea is a dwarf form with narrow leaves.

PINUS, Pine. The majestic and beautiful Pine tree has inhabited this earth for many centuries. It was this tree that was chosen by the Pilgrim Fathers in Massachusetts to decorate their first coins—"The Pine Tree Shillings." Pines have an extremely wide climatic distribution. Further­more, the different kinds offer a variety of heights that range from the lower-growing and dwarf types to the tree forms. The tree species make outstanding specimens, and are also excellent for screening and background purposes. The dwarf and lower-growing kinds fit into many rather restricted spaces. These are also good for accent plants and for use in planters.

Pines are sun lovers, and they become thin and straggly in shady situa­tions. They differ from many evergreens in that poor, dry, sandy soil meets their needs better than ground that is overly rich. Well-drained, deep, light, and friable soil that contains little or no organic matter is the best medium. Pines have a tap root system; because of this, it is wiser to plant nursery-grown stock that has been root-pruned or transplanted often enough to develop fibrous roots. The best method of propagation is by seeds. There are a great number of Pines that are available for gardeners. A few of the different species and varieties are listed here.
 
A Pine hedge each side of the gate provides a substantial entrance planting. English Ivy is used as a ground cover.
Photo: Roche

P. bungeana, Zone 4, Lace-bark Pine, is a hardy species with rich green leaves. It is well suited for specimen planting. This tree may attain a height of 70 feet, but it is not a rapid grower.

Photo: Jeannette Grossman; Landscape Architect: Arthur W. Erfeldt
Pinus contorta in a Japanese container adds an oriental touch to the upper ter­race. (Garden of Mrs. Wertheimer.)

P. canariensis, Zone 8, Canary Pine, is a lovely mild climate species with lustrous light green, drooping leaves. It develops into a tree 80 feet in height. This Pine is useful for growing in dry soil.

P. cembra, Zone 2, Swiss Stone Pine, is a hardy, dense, slow-growing tree reaching a height of 75 feet.

P. densiflora, Zone 4, Japanese Red Pine, grows rather fast, developing into a tree 100 feet in height, with a broadly spreading, flat head. Although it is hardy, it is susceptible to winter injury. Variety umbraculifera, Japanese Umbrella Pine, Tanyosho Pine, is a good low-growing kind, 12 feet in height, forming a flat top that resembles an umbrella.

P.flexilis, Zone 2, Limber Pine, is a suitable tree for small places. It can attain a height of 45 to 75 feet. Its growth is so slow that it would take many years to outgrow its desirability as a specimen on restricted lawns.

P. griffîthi (excelsà), Zone 5, Himalayan Pine, is one of the most beautiful of all Pines, and makes a stunning specimen when given ample space in which to fully develop. Its graceful, broadly spreading branches and droop­ing, bluish-green leaves are most effective. The Himalayan Pine matures into a large specimen 75 to 100 feet in height. This species can be grown as far north as Philadelphia.

P. haleþensis, Zone 9, Aleppo Pine, is a warm climate tree for seaside gardens. It grows 60 feet tall.

P. monticola, Mountain White Pine, Western White Pine, grows to 90 feet, and sometimes attains a greater height. Its branches are slender, and it matures into a pyramid that is rather narrow and open in habit, but it is denser than the P. strobus (Eastern White Pine). It can be grown from British Columbia to Idaho and California.

P. mugo mughus, Zone 2, Mugo Pine, is especially good for the small garden because of its rather dwarf, slow growth. For this reason it is often seen in foundation plantings, where it can frequently remain about 15 years before it outgrows its position. In that period of time a height of about 8 feet will be attained; however, the exact height necessarily varies with grow­ing conditions. It is well suited for entrance planting or in the foreground of the green garden. The variety compacta, Swiss Mountain Pine, is a hardy, globular form. The variety slavinii is a dwarfer type of the Swiss Mountain Pine. An aged specimen in cultivation is said to have a spread of 6 feet with a height of only 2 feet.

P. nigra, Zone 4, Austrian Pine, is an effective tree in its youth, but as it ages it has a tendency to deteriorate in landscape value. It attains a height of approximately 50 feet. In appearance it is somewhat more rugged than the Eastern White Pine; however, it makes a good specimen, windbreak, or boundary plant. The branches of the variety pendula are drooping, and the variety pygmaea is a dwarf form with twisted needles which develops into a dense, globular plant.

Photo: Roche
This Mugo Pine is effectively placed against a background of trees. (Garden of Dr. and Mrs. Ernest Scott.)

P. radiata, Zone 7, Monterey Pine, grows to a height of 90 feet. It matures into a spreading tree with an open, irregular head. It has the advantage of withstanding seashore conditions.

P. strobus, Zone 3, Eastern White Pine, is one of the top-ranking Pines. Its widespread popularity is certainly justified. The softness of its bluish green foliage and its graceful appearance contribute to its strong appeal. It is splendid as a specimen and for background planting, where it gives a good contrast when combined with the rich greens of other evergreens such as Yews. The dwarf forms include the variety nana that usually does not exceed 3 feet in height. The variety umbraculifera has a distinctive top-growth that is similar to an umbrella in shape.

Photo: Jeannette Grossman; Landscape Architect: Arthur W. Erfeldt
Mugo Pine and Dwarf Box dominate the planting by the steps that lead to the terrace. Periwinkle has been used as a ground cover.

P. sylvestns, Zone 2, Scotch Pine, is a rapid grower and makes a good screen in a comparatively short period. It is not a long-lived tree, and in later years becomes open in habit, thus losing much of its ornamental value—except for the picturesque effect it sometimes provides. It reaches a height of 75 feet.

P. thunbergi, Zone 4, Japanese Black Pine, is a spreading, broad-leaved tree, attaining a height of 90 feet. Frequently the branches are slightly pendulous. Its chief value is for planting at the seashore along the north­eastern coast, where it seems to tolerate unfavorable conditions.

PITTOSPORUM TOBIRA, Zone 8, Japanese Pittosporum. This attrac­tive evergreen is adapted to cultivation outdoors in the Deep South and in southern California. Its thick, rich, glossy green leaves are quite distinctive. It is a prized subject for hedges, topiary work, lawn specimens, and the mixed border. It attains a height of 10 feet, but in some instances it reaches 15 feet. Its flowers are white or yellowish, with a fragrance suggestive of orange blossoms.

Japanese Pittosporum will even grow in soil that is rather poor and can be planted in hot, sunny locations or in those which are partially shady. It withstands salt spray and droughts. In order to maintain a stocky growth some pruning is generally required. The usual method of propaga­tion is by means of cuttings taken from the tips of half-ripened wood, and from seed—if it is available. The leaves of the variety variegata are variegated with white markings.

Photo: Jeannette Grossman
Mugho Pine in a soya tub provides an evergreen accent for this front entrance.

Photo: J. Horace McFadand Company
Evergreens artistically worked into the planting scheme enhance the charm of this seaside home.

PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS, Zone 9, Cape Plumbago. The lovely azure-blue flowers of this plant that are produced throughout the summer make it a real garden treasure for bloom effect. In habit of growth Plumbago capensis is a partly climbing, straggly shrub that is charming on slopes, along low walls or fences, and for planting close to the patio where the beauty of its blooms can be fully enjoyed. This evergreen can either be trained by pruning or allowed to ramble, forming graceful, floriferous masses.

Cape Plumbago is a tender plant, and it should be given a pro­tected situation. It likes the full sun, and endures both heat and dryness. It does best in fertile soil. If injured in the winter, new growth soon appears in spring, provided the roots have not been damaged. The variety alba pro­duces white blooms. Propagation is by division, seed, and cuttings taken from the nearly mature wood.

PODOCARPUS MACROPHYLLUS, Zone 7, Yew Podocarpus, is a splendid evergreen 60 feet in height with spreading, horizontal branches that are pendant. The leaves resemble those of the Yew. It is well suited to clipping for formal effects and for hedge work and is excellent for accent purposes. Podocarpus grows in sun or shade and likes a well-drained garden soil. It responds to annual feedings, and care should be taken not to allow it to suffer from drought. The variety maki has smaller leaves and is usually bushlike in habit.

P. elongatus, Zone 10, Fern Podocarpus, is restricted in its climatic range to the warmest parts of the country. It grows into a tree 70 feet high. It has a graceful habit and bright green leaves. This species is also decorative as a tub plant.

PRUNUS LAUROCERASUS, Zone 6-7, Cherry-laurel. In the South and on the Pacific Coast, Cherry-laurel grows into a handsome evergreen 18 or more feet in height. A rich soil and a protected position suit it best. Its rich green, lustrous leaves and attractive appearance make it an excel­lent garden specimen. The racemes of fragrant, white flowers are followed by dark purple fruits. In warm climates a partly shady situation is a requi­site. Being adapted to shearing it makes a good hedge plant, and it is also qualified for use in background plantings. Propagation is by layers and by cuttings of the ripe wood. Cherry-laurel grows from Philadelphia south­ward. The variety schipkaensis, Zone 5, is a hardier form that can be culti­vated as far north as central New York.

P. lusitanìca, Zone 7, Portugal-laurel, is a highly desirable evergreen with lustrous leaves. It grows to 20 feet or more in height. The growth can be restrained by pruning. In common with Lauras nobilis it is used sometimes as a tub plant. In its native habitat it becomes arborescent, but in the North it is usually shrubby.

PSEUDOTSUGA TAXIFOLIA, Zone 4-6, Douglas-Fir. This fine, much loved tree can be grown over an extensive part of the United States. How­ever, it is not recommended for the E)eep South. The Report on Evergreens from Canada (Part IV) lists this tree as growing in Quebec and Manitoba, Canada. The foliage of Douglas-Fir varies from light to dark green and bluish-green, and its pendant cones are brown. The graceful, pyramidal, dense growth contributes to its well-deserved popularity. From the angle of its landscape value the fact that it retains its lower branches as it ages is decidedly in its favor. In its native habitat Douglas-Fir attains a height of 200 or 300 feet. Transplanting is easy because of its fibrous root system, and its growth is rapid. In exposed locations group plantings are prefer­able, since the trees shield each other from high winds.

Douglas-Fir prefers a good garden soil that is slightly acid, porous, and sandy. Propagation is by seed. Seed collected from trees growing in Colo­rado and other nearby mountainous states, produce plants that are hardier and more drought resistant than those grown from seed collected from the Pacific Coast.

The Rocky Mountain form is more compact in habit and is a slower grower than the Pacific Coast type. The variety glauca, Zone 4, is splendid for cold climates; its lovely foliage is bluish-green. Var. comþacta is dense in habit and conical in form. Var. densa is a slow grower with spreading, hori­zontal branches.

PYRACANTHA, Firethorn, is one of the most effective of all shrubs when in fruit. A well-grown specimen is literally covered with brilliant red, orange-red, or yellow berries that last well into the winter. It has many garden uses; for espalier work it is one of the favorites; it is lovely planted along a fence, or worked into the foundation planting for softening a corner. It also provides informal hedge material, and is excellent for high, narrow wall spaces, where it can be so trimmed as to give either a formal or an informal effect. Although Pyracantha can be controlled by shearing, if heavy pruning is practiced the berry production may not be so prolific. In mild climates the vigorous growing P. coccinea var. lalandi is best used as a specimen.

Photo: J. Horace McFarland Company
Pyracantha softens the corner of the house, and dwarf Holly (Ilex crenata helleri) gives a finishing touch to the terrace.

Pyracantha will grow in partial shade, but the full sun is required for a heavy crop of berries. Practically any soil that is well drained will meet its needs. However, slightly alkaline ground is best. In acid soils it is always well to sprinkle a small amount of ground limestone around the plants to counteract the acidity. Transplanting is a difficult procedure. If possible it is wise to purchase container-grown plants. If large specimens are moved, they should be lifted with good size balls of earth. Propagation is by seeds, layers, and cuttings taken from ripened wood.

P. atalantioides, Zone 6, Gibbs Firethorn, reaches a height of about 18 feet. It produces red berries.

P. coccinea, Zone 6, Scarlet Firethorn, and its variety lalandi, can be grown in protected locations as far north as New York. The variety lalandi produces large, showy, orange-red berries that are finer than the red fruits of P. coccinea. This species attains a height of 6 feet.
P. crenulata rogersiana, Zone 7, Rogers Firethorn, grows to a height of 10 feet and bears orange-red berries. The variety flava produces yellow fruits.

P. yunnanensis, P. crenato-serrata, Lodense Firethorn, is a low-growing or dwarf, narrow-leaved form that grows about 3 feet high. For a low hedge it is excellent, and it requires little trimming other than the cutting back or removal of shoots that grow out of bounds. Its habit of growth is com­pact, and the brilliantly colored berries are very showy.

QUERCUS AGRIFOLIA, Zone 9, California Live Oak. The evergreen types of the magnificent Oak trees flourish in mild climates. California Live Oak is used as a specimen on grounds of generous proportions, and its wide-spreading branches give welcome shade. It reaches a height of 90 feet. This species thrives in deep, rich soil that is somewhat moist. Oaks are grown from acorns, and in the South they are sometimes increased by cuttings .

Qj virginiana, Zone 7, Live Oak, is the beautiful southern tree which is often seen laden with gracefully hanging Spanish moss. Its broadly spread­ing branches have been known to reach 100 feet across. It attains a height of 50 to 60 feet. In the northern portion of its climatic range, Live Oak is frequently deciduous.

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